Where the Heck is New Brunswick and Why You Should Care

By alison - April 12, 2016 (Updated: March 17, 2016)

Why you should visit New Brunswick, CanadaNew Brunswick, Canada has dramatic landscapes, charming cities and towns, and friendly people. Yet it’s a tragically underrated tourist destination. We share why you should care about this Maritime Province.

“I’m from New Brunswick.” “Um… is that in New Jersey?”

That was the typical conversation I had as a child travelling through the United States. While living in Europe, I rarely even uttered the words, New Brunswick, unless I was speaking with a fellow Canadian. ‘Eastern Canada’, ‘the east coast’, ‘on the Atlantic’, and ‘close to the US border’ were ways I described where my home province was.

My hometown, Saint John, New Brunswick - not St. John's, Newfoundland...

My hometown, Saint John, New Brunswick – not St. John’s, Newfoundland… (photo: Tourism New Brunswick, Canada)

Saint John, the city I grew up in, is equally a minefield. Even most Canadians default to St. John’s, Newfoundland, rather than Saint John, New Brunswick.

Although my parents still live in the house I grew up in, I haven’t actually lived in New Brunswick since I was 18 and moved to neighbouring Nova Scotia for university. I met Andrew, graduated, got a job, and lived happily in Halifax until we moved to Belgium in 2005. In fact, I was much more likely to call Halifax ‘home’ than Saint John.

Returning to New Brunswick to live, after so (so) many years has been eye-opening in many ways. There have certainly been changes, but, I think the biggest change is how I view the province of my birth. Rather than with the eyes of a child who was itching to go out and see ‘the world,’ I’m viewing New Brunswick as a woman who is both well-travelled and a travel writer. In both cases, I like what I see.


This is autumn in New Brunswick. Seriously, what’s not to love?
(photo: Tourism New Brunswick, Canada)

The biggest revelation is just how similar New Brunswick and Belgium actually are.

Like Belgium, New Brunswick is terminally underrated. It’s ‘the drive-through province.’ It’s ‘boring.’ ‘There’s nothing but trees.’ ‘There’s nothing to do there.’ Like many folks who haven’t bothered to give New Brunswick a chance, I’ve said all of these things myself. However, just like the naysayers in Belgium, they’re wrong.

My mission for the coming months is to re-discover my home province through the eyes of an outsider; as someone who loves underrated destinations; as a writer seeking a deeper connection than just the top ten tourist attractions. I also hope to educate others about New Brunswick, while I’m reminding myself why I’m proud to be from here. I want you to want to discover New Brunswick too.

Grand Manan Island, New Brunswick

Isn’t New Brunswick beautiful? And it right in our backyard.

I’ve written before about why you should visit Canada’s Maritime Provinces, New Brunswick being one of them. But I want to tell you more about New Brunswick and why you shouldn’t just drive through on your way east.

If all of this has got you saying ‘Ok Alison, but where exactly IS New Brunswick?’ It’s right here:

New Brunswick, Canada

New Brunswick, Canada – Right there in red. (via Wiki commons)

Between Quebec (ie what Europeans think is ‘Eastern Canada’) and Nova Scotia (as far east as you can actually get without being in Newfoundland.)

It looks small, right? Well, it’s actually 72,908 km2 (28,150 sq mi) – That’s almost 2.5 times bigger than Belgium (at 30,528 km2). Canada is really freakin’ big and much of it is devoid of people. This wilderness is one of the things that makes Canada, including New Brunswick, great. But it also makes it challenging for tourists.


New Brunswick has a lot of trees… (photo: Tourism New Brunswick, Canada)

I’ll be the first to admit, if you stick to the highways in New Brunswick, the drive is boring; epically so. I mean, I like trees as much as anyone, but a four-hour drive with nothing but trees is tedious. Of course New Brunswick looks boring, if you’re zipping through on the Trans-Canada highway and the most exciting thing you see is the occasional Irving Big Stop (That’s a local gas station for my foreign friends).

But get off those highways and you’ll see what makes New Brunswick shine. You’ll pass through loads of picturesque farmland, small towns (and even smaller towns), and bustling cities; but let’s face it, even our largest 2 cities, Saint John and Moncton, barely crack 70,000 inhabitants. Our population density was 10.51/km2 in 2011 vs Belgium’s 363.6/km2 – just a slight disparity there.

New Brunswick is filled with courful, friendly small towns like St. Andrew's

New Brunswick is filled with courful, friendly small towns like St. Andrew’s (photo: Tourism New Brunswick, Canada)

That’s probably why New Brunswick is so damn friendly. Seriously – I thought it was normal to smile and say hello to everyone I passed on the street until I moved to Belgium. Cue funny looks and frantic side-stepping. Just don’t expect to get far in New Brunswick (and Eastern Canada in general) without having a conversation, about the weather, about where you’re from (and where you got that funny accent), about what to see and do in New Brunswick, probably all coming back around to the weather again.

What New Brunswick lacks in population it makes up for in natural beauty; not the least of which being the dramatic coastlines. In fact, if you Google New Brunswick one of the first images you see will likely be something like this:

Hopewell-Rocks at low-tide, New Brunswick's most iconic tourist attraction (photo: Tourism New Brunswick, Canada)

Hopewell-Rocks at low-tide, New Brunswick’s most iconic tourist attraction (photo: Tourism New Brunswick, Canada)

These are the Hopewell Rocks carved out by the Bay of Fundy; home to the highest tides in the world. In fact, the Bay of Fundy (top tip: no one ever calls it Fundy Bay) is still carving. Just a few weeks ago a large section of these rocks fell, changing the tourism landscape once again.

In case you were wondering, New Brusnwick has sandy beaches too... (photo: Tourism New Brunswick, Canada)

In case you were wondering, New Brunswick has sandy beaches too… (photo: Tourism New Brunswick, Canada)

I took this nature for granted as a child. In fact, my family’s home overlooks the Bay of Fundy. The dramatic tides and rocky shores seemed normal to me until I started exploring Belgium’s flat, built-up coast. I never did grow to love beaches surrounded by the impact of humans, no matter how much I love being by the sea.

The Perfect Lobster Roll

The Perfect Lobster Roll – A Maritime treat

Being by the ocean also means great seafood – something New Brunswick has in spades. Since I’ve been back I can hardly get my fill of lobster, fresh fish, clams, and other treats from the sea. Seaweed has also become a booming industry in recent years, as sustainable food sources and superfoods are all the rage. Here in New Brunswick, we’ve always eaten seaweed as a salty snack called dulse. It’s incredibly good for you and addictive once you acquire a taste for it.

New Brunswickers have been eating seaweed in the form of Dulse forever

New Brunswickers have been eating seaweed in the form of Dulse forever

The coastline isn’t the only place to get wet in New Brunswick. The province has almost 1500km2 of fresh water: rivers, lakes, ponds, and streams. This brings me to another famous sight in New Brunswick – covered bridges. There are 60 of them here, including the world’s longest; the Hartland Covered Bridge, spanning the St. John River. It doesn’t get more picturesque than a rustic covered bridge over a rushing stream, surrounded by vibrant autumn leaves. (Are you packing your bags yet?)

There are 60 covered bridges around the province. (photo: Tourism New Brunswick, Canada)

There are 60 covered bridges around the province. (photo: Tourism New Brunswick, Canada)
Hartland has the World's Longest Covered Bridge (photo: Tourism New Brunswick, Canada)

Hartland has the World’s Longest Covered Bridge (photo: Tourism New Brunswick, Canada)

One of New Brunswick’s biggest crops is one my Belgian readers will appreciate – potatoes. I’ll be the first to admit, Belgian frites are so much better than French fries anywhere else, including New Brunswick, but local potato companies export spuds around the world; including to Belgium. We also have a potato research facility and a potato museum. Seriously.

But New Brunswick has more in common with Belgium than potatoes. The biggest similarity is the combination of diverse cultures and the benefits and struggles this brings.

Although Canada is an officially bilingual country, only one province is officially bilingual. Any guesses? It’s not Quebec, our francophone province, and it’s not Ontario, home to Canada’s capital city, Ottawa, it’s New Brunswick.

Much like Belgium, New Brunswick is linguistically divided through the middle. Here, the north is primarily Francophone and the south is primarily Anglophone. Moncton is the city caught in the middle. While I think multilingualism is always a good thing, as in Belgium, it has led to tension, arguments, wasted public funds, and some ridiculous policies in New Brunswick. (Can’t we all just get along?) But on an individual basis, New Brunswickers are happy to talk to you and give you a helping hand whether they speak your language or not.

New Brunswick has a rich Acadian heritage

New Brunswick has a rich Acadian heritage (photo: Tourism New Brunswick, Canada)

One thing to note about the French in New Brunswick – it is NOT like Quebecois. New Brunswick Francophones (like those in Nova Scotia) are Acadian. You’ve heard of the Cajuns in New Orleans? Well, they came from this part of Canada during the Great Expulsion when the British and French were fighting over ‘the New World.’ Some stayed and some returned, but all of the Acadians here are proud of their heritage and their distinct culture. (Just don’t tell them how cute their accent is – even though it is.)

As a southerner, I grew up Anglophone and was the first person in my family to become officially bilingual in school. My teachers were a mix of Acadians and Quebecois, with a few bilingual Anglophones, teaching from ‘standard French’ texts. My French accent and education were scattershot but when we moved to Belgium I was grateful for the background no matter how different it was from European French.

But, as with all of North America, neither the English nor the French was the first to set foot on this vast territory. The First Nations people were here long before the rest of us knew how to draw a map. New Brunswick is home to 15 first nations, all of which are part of either the Mi’kmaq or Maliseet groups. One of my goals while back in my home province is to learn more about the history, traditions, and rich cultures of these groups and hopefully share it with you.

First Nations culture is strong in New Brunswick too

First Nations culture is strong in New Brunswick too (photo: Tourism New Brunswick, Canada)

My hometown, Saint John, was the first incorporated city in Canada, in 1785 (only about a hundred years older than my house in Brussels…). Around town, you’ll hear a lot about the Loyalists, the refugees from the United States who remained loyal to the British crown. We even celebrate May 18th, as Loyalist Day, in New Brunswick. If you enjoy historic re-enactments and period costumes, it’s a fun time to visit.

Experience New Brunswick's history at attractions like King's Landing Historic Settlement.

Experience New Brunswick’s history at attractions like King’s Landing Historic Settlement. (photo: Tourism New Brunswick, Canada)

So why then, with its complex and interesting history, beautiful nature, and warm friendly people is New Brunswick such an underrated tourist destination?

Again, the answers are much the same of those in Belgium. With so many distinct cultures, New Brunswick’s identity is hard to define. From a marketing perspective, there is no one clear vision of New Brunswick to sell.

Compared to its neighbours, it’s small and its attractions are spread out. Sure you may get more bang for your tourism buck in Montreal or PEI, but you won’t experience as much diversity there as you will in New Brunswick and here you’ll have fewer people vying for the same attractions.

Most of all, though, I believe, like Belgians, New Brunswickers are humble. We know we have it good here but we don’t like to brag too much. If you make the effort to exit off the highways we’ll happily share our hidden gems with you, but if you’re in a rush, feel free to pass on through. We’d prefer to wait for the people who will take the time to slow down and appreciate what’s here like we do.

Why you should visit New Brunswick, Canada

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Alison Cornford-Matheson is a Canadian freelance writer and travel photographer and the founder of She is the author of The Foodie Guide to Brussels: Local Tips for Restaurants, Shops, Hotels, and Activities. Alison landed in Belgium in 2005 and, over the years, has become passionate about slow and sustainable travel, in Europe and beyond. She loves to discover hidden gems - be they museums, shops, restaurants, castles, gardens or landscapes, and share them through her words and photos. She has visited 45 countries and is currently slow travelling through North America in an RV, with her husband, Andrew, and two well-travelled cats. You can also follow her work on Google+
I loved my time in Riga, Latvia a few years ago and Adi's post takes me right back. It's a European travel... - 3 days ago


  1. Comment by Lynne MacDonald

    Lynne MacDonald April 23, 2016 at 02:14

    Excellent article. I was born and raised in N.B. and would love to return at some time. I devour everything I can find on my home province and I subscribe to Saltscape magazine, which I read cover to cover. Living in Alberta for many years but am not enjoying living here any longer. Hope you post more!!

    • Comment by Alison


      Alison April 27, 2016 at 16:28

      Thank you Lynne! We’re definitely planning to write much more about New Brunswick and Canada in general so we’re thrilled to have you along for the journey!

  2. Comment by Andy

    Andy April 23, 2016 at 17:25

    One of the reasons we are a “Drive Through” province is the road signage. If a task force were formed with the express purpose of getting tourists to go from Quebec to Nova scotia with stopping they would change nothing. Ideas: Explain the fiddlehead. Looks like a squashed snail. Signs for River Drive should say “Rejoin highway after X Km “to encourage tourists to try a bit of the scenic route without worry that they are trapped on a two lane for hours. Have more than one sign mentioning what Kings Landing is. Americans assume it is where the King (sic) lands his helicopter when he visits his possession. And so on…..

    • Comment by Alison


      Alison April 27, 2016 at 16:30

      Thanks for your comment Andy. Getting folks off the highways is always a challenging issue as often the goal is to get from point A to point B as quickly as possible. We hope by sharing some of the great things this province has to offer we’ll help encourage folks to slow down and explore the locations along the way to their final destination.

  3. Comment by Jim MacFarlane

    Jim MacFarlane May 28, 2016 at 03:32

    Great article, visit youtube and view “My Home in New Brunswick by the Sea” for more supporting information on New Brunswick.

    • Comment by Alison


      Alison May 30, 2016 at 15:49

      Thanks Jim!

  4. Comment by Stacey

    Stacey June 26, 2016 at 04:05

    What a great article to give visitors an inside peek into New Brunswick. It’s my home province and, like many, I didn’t really appreciate it as much as I should have while living there. I’m bringing my British boyfriend home to visit it for the first time this summer and am so excited to show him all around. It really does have a lot to offer and I know we’ll only scratch the surface on this visit. We’ll be staying in Fredericton for a couple of nights and then heading up river to Grand Falls to visit family. Of course the Hartland covered bridge is on the itinerary and then the biggest axe in the world in Nackawic (he found that and I’ve never actually seen it!).
    It’ll be a great trip. Looking forward to reminding myself of more of its beauty reading the rest of your posts.

    Happy Travels!

    • Comment by Alison


      Alison June 26, 2016 at 17:18

      Thanks so much Stacey! I’m glad you enjoyed it and it’s also great to hear from a fellow New Brunswicker! I agree 100% about not appreciating NB when I lived here. Coming back after living away for so long has really opened my eyes to what a fantastic and overlooked province we come from. We’ve already had some great new (to us) experiences here and have many more in the works. (I haven’t seen the axe either and it’s on my list too!) Happy travels on your Atlantic Canadian adventure and if there’s any way we can help, let us know!

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