Tour Daze France Part 8 – Paris-Amsterdam

By alison - January 23, 2007 (Updated: October 19, 2015)

This entry is part 8 of 9 in the series Tour Daze France 2006.
Breakfast at the bakery.

Back in Paris… we recovered from our night on the town and started our day with coffee and croissants. We decided to split up again. Bill and Helen wanted to wander the streets and soak up the city. I wanted to do what all sane girls want to do in Paris – shop.

Andrew and I strolled leisurely back to the Seine. I can’t reiterate enough how nice the walk from the hotel to the river is. There are loads of tiny shops and cafes… To me, it’s the real Paris.

When we made it to Notre Dame, we decided to check out the view from the tower, only to be confronted with an hour an a half wait. It had gotten quite cold over the past few days so we decided to pass and save it for a warmer time. We did wander through the church again and marvelled at its incredible stained glass.

We then hit the shopping area. I would love to say that I found some delicious little boutiques and bought some one of a kind items… but let’s face it – I just don’t have that kind of money. Really, it was the same stores that we have here in Brussels, but somehow, just the act of shopping in Paris, whatever the store, seems so much more chic, than shopping anywhere else.

Pictures from Los Pilones always turn out like this… could it be the Mojitos?

After all the shopping the boy could handle and a rather disappointing lunch we decided to go to the Pompidou. I was surprised – this is where Andrew decided he hated modern art after our first visit. However, he decided he was game for another try.

We relaxed with a cup of coffee in the beautiful little café on the top floor first. If nothing else, you should visit the Pompidou for this experience. On a clear day, you can see all over the city. There are great views of the Eiffel Tower, Notre Dame and Montmartre.

Once we were in an artsy frame of mind, we started through the exhibits. We lucked out and several of the exhibitions were really interesting (even to Andrew). We didn’t try to tackle the entire museum and we didn’t try to like everything. When we had enough culture, we grabbed our coats and bags, and headed back to the hotel.

Super that evening was another delicious recommendation by our hotel. Le Volcan was cozy and had a delicious fixed price menu. We had a chatty waiter with an interesting accent. We learned that he was French but had lived in California and he had travelled in Canada and actually knew where Nova Scotia is.

Watergraftsmeer – our old stomping grounds

Our final day in Paris was another highlight. While we were visiting Giverny we visited a room in Monet’s house which contained reproductions of many of his most famous works. Under each was a plaque stating the name of the work and where the original was located. Many of my favourites were housed in a museum that I had never heard of – The Marmottan. In fact, Helen and I had a hard time even finding it in our guide books but eventually we found a small blurb.

Even though it wasn’t included in our museum passes and it was pretty far out of the city centre, we decided we would make the trek before we left the city. Thank God we did – it was stunning.

The Museé Marmottan is tricky to find. It is located in the 19th century mansion of the art historian, Paul Marmottan. When you first enter the museum you are in the original house and you can admire the art and furnishing that Marmottan collected. Downstairs however, you enter a gallery containing 65 of Monet’s paintings, which were donated by his son Michel. I am without words to describe how amazing they are in person.

Amsterdam’s floating flower market

Monet’s later works took my by surprise the most. I guess I have been inundated by his water lilies, and although I love them, they were not my favourites. On one wall hung three very abstract pieces he completed late in his life. I could have stared at these for hours – particularly, my favourite, L’Allée des Rosiers. The painting took me right back to Giverny.

After a long and leisurely stay with Monet, we hopped in the car and headed home to Brussels for laundry and a quick visit with the cats. After one night in our own beds, we were on the road again, to Amsterdam.

We arrived in A’dam late in the day and checked in to our hotel. We decided to stay out near the airport since Andrew would be our chauffeur for the weekend.

Where would we possibly go to eat on a Friday night in Amsterdam – it had to be Los Pilones. Like everyone we take to our favourite place, I think Helen and Bill were a bit sceptical as we took our places at the crowed counter in the tiny bar. Once they had their first taste of the food and a Mojito or two, they came around.

The next day we drove into the city via our first neighbourhood in A’dam – Watergraftsmeer. We checked out our old apartment and Bill and Helen marvelled at all of the little canals. Then we did the best thing you can do in the city on a Saturday – we wandered.

Hmmm… we’re still out of focus… what could the matter be?

We started off with breakfast at my favourite café. There’s nothing too particular about it – but they serve good food and in the summer you can sit beside a canal for as long as you like with nothing but a coffee or a glass of wine and no one will bother you for hours. Not being canal seating weather, we ate inside.

We strolled by Anne Frank house, and checked out Dam Square. We popped into some of the shops and wandered through the flower market. Eventually we ended up at La Place for a refresher coffee and a snack to hold us until supper.

Before supper however, we had one last stop – Wynand Fockink. While it may sound like a naughty pastime or maybe some sort of communicable disease, Wynand Fockink is really a tiny little Jenever bar tucked away in a back alley. People come from around the world to visit it and the Dutch stop in on their way home from work – we went for the pie.

While Wynand Fockink carries many different kinds of Jenever and brandewijn, our favourite so far is called Apple Tart, and it tastes like apple pie in a glass… with a kick. After tossing a few back we were sufficiently lubricated to go to supper.

You’d think all we ever did was eat…

Supper was another Amsterdam tradition – Rijstafle at Kantjil and de Tijger. This is basically more Indonesian food than you could possibly eat. It is delish.

With very full bellies we had our final surprise waiting – Helen’s birthday trip (since we would miss her big day in December) was a night time canal cruise with a live jazz band.

Canal cruises are a great way to see the city, especially at night. This particular cruise was the best I’ve been on yet. The music set a nice backdrop to the lights as we cruised slowly by. There was no annoying spiel in 17 different languages and we had bottomless glasses of drink and loads of Dutch cheese. It was a relaxing ending to a busy day.

The final instalment of our adventures will be coming soon…

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Alison Cornford-Matheson is a Canadian freelance writer and travel photographer and the founder of She is the author of The Foodie Guide to Brussels: Local Tips for Restaurants, Shops, Hotels, and Activities. Alison landed in Belgium in 2005 and, over the years, has become passionate about slow and sustainable travel, in Europe and beyond. She loves to discover hidden gems - be they museums, shops, restaurants, castles, gardens or landscapes, and share them through her words and photos. She has visited 45 countries and is currently slow travelling through North America in an RV, with her husband, Andrew, and two well-travelled cats. You can also follow her work on Google+
I loved my time in Riga, Latvia a few years ago and Adi's post takes me right back. It's a European travel... - 7 hours ago


  1. Comment by Alison

    Alison January 23, 2007 at 14:11

    Di – well… Paris is South of Antwerp… Amsterdam is North… 🙂 What do you need directions to?

  2. Comment by Di

    Di January 23, 2007 at 13:59

    Loved it … dank u wel for sharing your stories 🙂
    Needing directions.

  3. Comment by dARK sIDE dAD

    dARK sIDE dAD February 3, 2007 at 19:35

    Magical! … Thanks …
    Love … dARK sIDE dAD

  4. Comment by la france salt

    la france salt December 9, 2007 at 18:00

    la france salt

    We love France!

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